Wednesday, September 7, 2011

GoldenEye: Crease shading for Asian (and non-Asian) eyes!

I've done a number of eyeshadow tutorials with bright colors, but have yet to do one with metallics.  I thought gold would be a nice one to do.  When we're done, we should have something that looks a little like this:

As much as this is about doing a gold-toned shadow tutorial, this is also about defined crease shading, a technique that is rather new to me.  I've always admired beautiful crease shading, but I feel very limited to just a few eyeshadow styles because my bone structure doesn't really allow for very much versatility in terms of shading.

This is the type of eye I wish I had:

Notice the deep-set eyes, strong brow bone, and defined crease.  Now compare these to my eyes:

Shallow sockets, barely a brow bone in sight, and just the slightest little eyelid crease.  I think I have a strange hybrid between a mono lid and a double eyelid.  Very difficult eye shape to work with.  Therefore, I do the best with what I've got and have been trying to develop a defined crease-shading method for my typical Asian eyelids, which I will demonstrate today.

If you don't have shallow sockets like me, then you're probably fortunate to have deep set eyes like my ideal eyelids I posted above.  Good for you!  This technique will work for you too, it'll probably be even easier! :D  For this look, I'm going to use these colors from the ELF Endless Eyes palette:

1. Pale Gold: highlight color
2. Yellow Gold: base color
3. Iced Coffee: crease color
4. Espresso: deep crease color
5. Black: outer corner accent color

I start out with a primed eye, then apply gold pencil liner to my eyelid to intensify the gold shadow color I'll be using:

Next, I apply the yellow-gold base shade to my entire lid and highlight my brow arch with the pale gold shadow:

Now I'm going to take black pencil liner, line the my top and bottom lid lines, and then smudge and smoke black shadow over the liner:

The next step is a little strange.  I'm going to draw a thin, winged line with liquid liner along my top lid line.  Because I'm new at this, I find that it's easier to define my crease if I have a guide point, this being the tip of the wing.  I figure I may be able to skip this step once I get better at it.

Using the ELF Studio Contour brush, I'm going to start defining my crease.  These brushes are perfect for this kind of shading.  They're so soft and precise, I ended up getting 3!  I'm going to dip my contour brush into the iced coffee crease shade and, starting at the outer corner of the brow bone, I'm going to sweep shadow inward along the hollow.  The color should taper and fade towards the inner corner of the eye.

You can take the color all the way to the inside corner if you'd like, but I'm going to stop 2/3 of the way in.

The result should look something like this:

I'm going to deepen the crease by sweeping the darker, espresso brown shade along the crease line that I've created.  I want a nice fade, however, so I'm not going to take the color as far in as I did with the iced coffee shade.

For added depth and drama, I'm going to further define the outer corners with black shadow:

Then I'm just going to re-define the winged line by retracing with liquid eyeliner:

Curl lashes, add mascara, and I'm done:

Not bad!  I've come to terms with the fact that I'll never have deep-set lids and I'm pretty happy that I can get mine to look the way they do here.

To complete my entire look, I finish with lips and cheeks.  I define and fill in my lips with a nude lip pencil:

Oh, I bought a new lip color the other day!  ELF Essential Luscious Liquid Lipstick in Baby Lips.

It's a gorgeous, barely-there, shiny pink shade.  It has a nice consistency and I love the convenient, twist-up tube with an adorable little flocked applicator tip that resembles a fuzzy pony hoof.  The smell is a little strange, kind of like my mint dental floss, but tolerable.

Overall look:

Cheek color is Milani Minerals Blush in Luminous, supposedly a dupe for Nars' Orgasm.

Hope some of y'all found this tutorial useful!  Have a great night. :D



  1. I think you did a really good job at defining your crease. I have monolids and still find it difficult to do crease shading, it just ends up looking like I am wearing too much eye makeup, unless I wear falsies, maybe. I understand what you mean about wanting the deep set eyes, life would just be so much easier. And it has nothing to do with wanting to be white, like so many people presume, ugh. Regardless, you have very pretty doublelids :)

  2. Thanks Michelle, I've been practicing daily since initially experimenting with it. :)

    But yes, I love being Asian! It just seems like a lot of shadow styles I want to try are made for deep-set eyes, so I have to modify a lot of looks to work with my bone structure.

    I appreciate your kind words and thank you for reading my humble little blog.

  3. I've been a pro makeup artist for 12 years, I always get excited about working with Asian eye types because you can create just about any look with them. Embrace them, because they're a HUGE asset.

    Much love,


    1. I'm sure you've created plenty of amazing looks for Asian eyes! Thanks for the positive energy! :D